Cambodia: Sen Monorom

Slowly drawn from a dream into reality where someone was lightly knocking on the door, I realized we had slept through our alarm and our bus departing Kratie was due to leave a half hour ago. Luckily, we had packed the night before and were able to run downstairs (without brushing our teeth, sorry) and hop into the minibus in record time. Feeling guilty on several levels - for holding up the group and for having terrible breath in such cramped quarters - I remained in a daze for the beginning of the ride listening to the surrounding exchanges of travelers' tales. Happily, no one seemed to hold it against us for being late and people were quite friendly with each other for the 4.5 hour journey.

Sen Monorom city center seen from our hotel.

Cambodia: Kratie

By this point, I am fairly accustomed to the border crossings over here - the bus assistants who want to take your passport and earn some money by handing it to the border guards instead of you, the "stamping fees" pocketed by the officials, the overall sense of confusion because you don't speak the language of either country that you're going between and my favorite: the temperature check. Fortunately, the worst that usually happens is getting tricked out of a few US dollars, but still I tend to get anxious on the day of a crossing, never sure what obstacles/touts will await us.

The mighty Mekong - central vein of the region.

Laos: Pakse

The 12-hour ride from Vientiane to the southern end of the country took place on the nicest sleeping bus I have ever had the pleasure of riding. We arrived at the bus station and my jaw dropped a little when we saw the plush interior that resembled miniature cruise ship rooms rather than the fish stick beds I have grown accustomed to on these vehicles. Though the double beds posed a potentially awkward situation for anyone traveling solo (you really get to know your neighbor on the trip as you spoon through the night), it was perfect for Sam and me - I could even stretch my legs out all the way! After watching the $1 DVDs we had purchased in Vientiane (We Were Soldiers, Beasts of the Southern Wild and We're the Millers in case you were wondering), we slept for a couple hours before arriving in Pakse around 6am.

Pakse city.

Laos: Vientiane

Last time we were in Laos, we stayed in Vientiane long enough to change buses, so I looked forward to seeing a bit more of the nation's capital this time around. Turns out there really isn't too much to see besides the standard temples, government buildings and the odd museum with a few cultural relics. It's a laid back town along the Mekong with a view of Thailand on the other side.

Soccer on the Mekong - Thailand in the background.

Laos: Vang Vieng

On our last go around in Laos, we spent about 3 weeks working with a group called SAELAO near Vang Vieng. Spending an extended period of time here and getting to know the kids in Nathong Village (7km outside Vang Vieng) was one of my favorite experiences and I was thrilled to be going back. Vang Vieng has recently become a destination for backpackers on the “banana pancake trail” (the typical route through SE Asia for young travelers). It is best known for tubing, where you use an inner tube as your mode of transportation down the river from bar to bar. Of course heavy drinking mixed with playing in the river has led to many injuries and even casualties, so most of the bars have been shut down since Sam and I did it two years ago.

Vang Vieng town with karst mountains in the background.

Laos: Xayaboury

We found a flyer for the Elephant Conservation Center while in Luang Prabang and contacted them to see if we could talk about working together for the project Sam and I are launching. The coordinator, Emilie, was very receptive to meeting with us and we made plans to visit the site to learn more about what they do. We took another local bus a few hours southwest of Luang Prabang and landed at the bus station in Xayaboury. A tuk-tuk with the ECC logo picked us up and we drove through the town to a recently dammed river where a boat was waiting for us. We drove along the still lake and around a bend to see the bungalows of the ECC.

What used to be a river is now a lake.

Laos: Luang Prabang

From Oudom Xay, we took a local bus to the royal capital of Lao, Luang Prabang. It was, I think, the most beautiful ride I’ve ever taken. Winding along the narrow roads on the mountain edge, we passed through countless villages with children playing, women cooking, pigs running their noses on the ground. All this with a backdrop of a blue sky, puffy white clouds, luscious green mountains and valleys, and snaking rivers speckled with fishermen in their long boats.

In this region, it is common for people
to carry bags with the strap on their heads.

Laos: Muang Khoa + Oudom Xay

We strategically chose to sleep near the bus station in Dien Bien Phu because we knew the bus leaving for Laos departed at 5am. We woke up at the last possible moment and went to claim our seats. There were a few other travelers as well as locals that brought lots of cargo along with them. On our way out of town we stopped every few minutes to pick up packages and more people. These daily trips seem to take the place of DHL in these parts. From my point of view, the drivers and assistants do a fantastic job remembering what packages get dropped off in which location.

Typical minibus - goods on top, people within.

Vietnam: Dien Bien Phu

Rather than commit to 30 hours on a bus from Hanoi straight through to Luang Prabang, Laos, we decided to break up the journey. Dien Bien Phu sits near the border with Laos and considering the history of the place we thought it would be an interesting stopover. Procuring a ticket from Hanoi to Dien Bien Phu required a bit more effort than other routes because DBP is not firmly on the tourist track. We ventured through the dense and chaotic traffic to one of Hanoi’s many bus stations (they all serve different destinations) and spoke with the designated English-speaking employee who sold us our tickets for the 12-hour overnight journey.

My Dinh bus station, Hanoi.

Vietnam: Ha Long Bay

I have a distinct memory of my eldest brother telling me how beautiful Ha Long Bay is. I'm not sure when we had this conversation, certainly many years ago, but it has stuck with me. Once Sam and I put Vietnam into our travel plans, I knew I wouldn't leave the country before visiting Ha Long Bay to see what Dan was talking about. Of course he was right, and the 1,969 islands of limestone karst are a spectacular sight.

Limestone karst islands surround you on all sides.

Vietnam: Hanoi

We left Hue as Typhoon Nari was approaching Vietnam just to the south of us. Luckily, we were heading away from the storm and only experienced rain and heavy winds as a result. We boarded the sleeping bus in the rain and noticed that not all sleeping buses are created equal. The assistant driver assigned me to a seat way in the back (next to the toilet, but that’s not the point). This seat happened to be just a few inches shorter than the rest in terms of legroom – which is sparing to begin with. Sam, seated ahead of me, didn’t believe my seat was any different and we switched so he could see for himself.

Yes, the seat was very small.

Vietnam: Hue

Looking back, we were very fortunate to have had such lovely weather for our first day in Hue. We arrived mid-afternoon after a beautiful train ride and got a room with a nice view before heading out to explore.

View of Hue.

Vietnam: On the train from Da Nang to Hue

There's a lot of talk about the trains in Vietnam when you're traveling in southeast Asia. We knew we wanted to take it for some leg of the journey and had heard that the portion between Da Nang and Hue was the most beautiful. Conveniently, it is also the shortest/cheapest leg at 2 hours/$4USD. We bought our tickets the night before and crossed our fingers for good viewing weather the next day.

"Foreigner" train ticket.

Vietnam: Da Nang City

After having a great day trip to the beach in Da Nang, we decided to check out of our place in Hoi An and head back to the city the next day. On the drive to the beach we had noticed a local bus going between Hoi An - Da Nang and thought we'd give it a try. We asked our hotel receptionist how much it would cost to take the local bus and after trying to insist that we take the tourist bus service, she finally replied, "I don't know because you're a tourist."

We wanted to give the local bus a try, so we walked to the bus station just outside the main part of town and waited for the next departure. Making a mental note that the highest price listed on the bus was 18,000dong, I wondered what they would try to charge us. We were on the bus for about 15 minutes when the ticket collector decided to come around. Sam handed him 40,000dong to cover both of us, but the man threw up his hands saying, "No, no, no. 30,000dong!" Sam pointed to the price list and the collector in turn pointed to our bags implying that's why we had to pay extra. Confronted with the language barrier and the fact that we were in the middle of a small village unsure of the other transportation options to the city, we just paid the 30,000dong each. Yes, that is equal to $1.50USD per person.

Bus driver decided to stop and rest for a few minutes.

Vietnam: Da Nang Beach

Only 30km away from the old town of Hoi An is one of Vietnam's largest urban centers and port cities: Da Nang. While still staying in Hoi An, we rented a motorbike and made the beautiful hour long drive up the coast to visit Da Nang beach where Sam heard there might be some good surf. The first portion of the journey was a collection of roadside shops, homes and temples. Then some open field space quickly consumed by large, private residential complexes with English names like Ocean Villas and The Residence and at least 3 golf courses. After this, luxury seaside hotels were intermixed with cafes and restaurants as we hit the city limit.

Stop for lunch on the beach.

Vietnam: Hoi An

We arrived in Hoi An around 6am and were greeted with the usual onslaught of moto and taxi drivers. At this point, I was so desperate to have a place to set my bags and a bed to lay flat in while stretching my legs out fully that we were relieved to have someone drive us rather than walk around blindly. Our first experience with a moto driver in Hoi An turned out to be indicative of what would follow - they capitalize on the language barrier and end up trying to charge double what you agreed on in the beginning when you reach your destination. In this case, we checked into our hotel and the driver sat outside waiting for us to give him the extra money he demanded. Watching him from our room window hoping he'd go away I saw his friend pull up and I realized it was not worth the fight over the equivalent of $1USD - I had heard enough horror stories about local "mafias." I grabbed the cash and went downstairs to give it to him and was met in the hallway with his friend who had come to collect. I was enraged and yelled at him, forcing him backwards and out of the hotel communicating that it was not acceptable for him to come into our hotel. Pleased with their extra money, the two drove away. I was reminded of my place here - a foreigner, unable to speak their language, completely vulnerable and at the mercy of those I ask for help.

Water buffalo. He won't take advantage of you.

Vietnam: Saigon and Nha Trang, Part II

While in Dalat, we got in touch with a wildlife conservation group in Saigon that we wanted to meet. Note: Sam and I are working on a project to connect locally run environmental groups with resources/volunteers. Thus, we are technically on a working holiday - building our itineraries around organizations we can meet with. We decided it'd be worth it to circle back for the meeting in Saigon and then continue our journey up the coast. To make the most of our time, we opted for the night bus which departed at 1am and arrived at 6am. This driver was particularly "horn happy" and I wasn't the most pleasant person to be around come 6am when I didn't have any snacks or sleep all night. Sam is a saint for putting up with me, really.

Add this to the collection "Sam is too big for Asia."

Vietnam: Dalat

From the scorching heat of Nha Trang, our next stop was Dalat. A big town in the south central highlands, it's a lovely city situated in the mountains and a lot colder than the upper 80s-90 fahrenheit temperatures we're used to. Though it's still about 75, it's a drop exacerbated by the rainy weather and I'm cold! I read that the Vietnamese and French used to come here to escape the heat and they were spot on with that.

View from our room.

Vietnam: Nha Trang

From Mui Ne, we planned to take a night bus up the coast to Nha Trang - another beach destination. Due to depart at 1am, we busied ourselves as much as possible with food, billiards and the hotel pool until everything started to close. We waited in the dark with the hotel security guards and were relieved when the bus showed up only a half hour late. Being one of the last pick-ups, we had to go on the top row of "beds" (really: reclined seats with an extended foot rest). From here, you can really feel the swaying of the bus with each curve and enjoy the thrill of wondering whether or not you'll fall out of your "bed" each time. Luckily, neither of us did.

Sam in his top row bus bed.

Vietnam: Mui Ne

Leaving Saigon for Mui Ne was the first time we had to rush to catch our bus. Usually, it's a hurry up and wait situation in which we get ready for the specified departure time and end up sitting around until people feel like moving. Not so this time around, as we sat at a café enjoying some ice tea and watched our bus stop at the booking office and drive away. Of course, it all worked out and we hopped on with our quickly assembled belongings, ready for the 6-hour ride to the coast.

Mui Ne fishing village.

Vietnam: Ho Chi Minh City a.k.a. Saigon

As the days drew closer to the expiration of our Cambodian visa, I had a mix of emotions. Primarily, I was thrilled at the prospect of going to Vietnam, adding another country to the list and experiencing a new culture. After that, I realized that I was sad to leave Cambodia. Spending one month there, with the latter portion in smaller towns making more meaningful connections with the people I met, I had become very comfortable in this country that was one month ago completely foreign to me. I was nervous about starting all over again in a new country - not to mention enduring another border crossing.

Suddenly, our bus was on a boat - like this.

Cambodia: Tuol Sleng (S-21)

As I mentioned in my Battambang post, there are many memorial sites for the genocide that occurred under Pol Pot's regime in Cambodia. One of the most well-known is Tuol Sleng, also called S-21, which was formerly a high school in Phnom Penh. Here, more than 20,000 people were tortured, interrogated and forced to confess to made-up crimes against the Khmer Rouge (often saying they were spies for the CIA or KGB) before being killed.

"And we also want the younger generation not to forget this regime and
not to allow that kind of regime to happen again in Cambodia and other countries."

Cambodia: Phnom Penh

We left for Phnom Penh at 7:30am for what I now expected to be a breathtaking journey - and not in a good way. Having had a few experiences on the roads in this part of the country, I knew the potholes would be plentiful and every time we approached an especially large one, I'd hold my breath as the bus swayed left then right and back again until we finally lurched onto more solid ground. This was in addition to what driving is like on the smoother roads - constant honking and overtaking the cars/motorbikes/tractors in front of us - at a dizzying speed. To ease the anxiety, they usually play Cambodian music videos or a cheesy karate film.

Public Service Announcement at the toll booth.

Cambodia: Koh Kong

We had an almost equally interesting journey leaving Koh Sdach as we did arriving there, but we were lucky enough to have met See, a Khmer guy who also spoke English, while in Koh Sdach. He helped us arrange a boat back to Poi Yopon and told us when the car left from there for Koh Kong. Apparently, one leaves every morning so there was no real problem there. It did get exciting when 8 adults packed into the 5-seater sedan and set off for the 2 hour ride.

Driver sitting on the cupholders with a woman to his left
and two passengers on the right.

Cambodia: Koh Sdach

If I thought Koh Rong was remote feeling, that opinion changed quickly even before getting to our next destination. We spent an entire afternoon walking to various travel companies trying to figure out how to get to Koh Sdach from Sihanoukville. The language barrier had a lot to do with the difficulty we encountered, but I also realized that many of the people we asked weren't accustomed to using maps and even when we pointed to the place we wanted to go, they couldn't help us. Eventually, a woman was able to help us and we learned that we needed to take a bus in the direction of Koh Kong, but hop off at a cafe along the way and wait for a minibus to take us to Poi Yopon where we could hire a dingy to take us across to the island of Koh Sdach. It was a bit scary to think of doing this and know that the places we'd be going probably wouldn't have many English speakers to help if we got lost or ran into trouble. Luckily, we were seated near an English speaking German man who also spoke Khmer and he helped us make the connection to the minibus.

View from the road.

Cambodia: Sihanoukville + Koh Rong

Having our fill of the quiet city of Battambang, Sam and I decided to get on to a more lively setting. Sihanoukville is a popular beach destination for travelers and boasts beautifully undeveloped islands that are on their way to becoming like their Thai competitors in the tourism market. We bought a ticket for a night bus from Battambang to Sihanoukville and were excited that it was a sleeper with a toilet and wifi. After hopping on the back of a moto and arriving at the bus, we were met with a bus with 70% reclining long chair/beds and no wifi or bathroom. That was to be expected because you never know what you're really going to get over here, so we settled in.

Packing a moto into the luggage compartment of the bus.

Cambodia: Battambang

After seeing the temples at Angkor, I wasn't sure where the rest of our month-long visa in Cambodia would bring us. We ended up buying a bus ticket to a nearby city, supposedly the second largest in the country, Battambang. The road between Siem Reap and Battambang was pretty decent and the trip took only a couple hours. We found a guesthouse for $3/night and went out to walk around the city center. Not at all what I would consider a big city, it is a quaint place with the bustle of street vendors, motorbikes, tuk-tuks and a few cars (many from humanitarian organizations) alongside remnants of French colonial architecture and a small river. Most places are closed by 8pm. After that, you can find some local bars open, a night market or the main hostel for backpackers still operating and serving your choice of Cambodia, Angkor or Anchor beers. (They get around the fact that the latter two have such similar pronunciations by calling "anchor" "anshor.")

Central Market.

Cambodia: Angkor Temples

Okay, the temples at Angkor are amazing. I hadn't realized that Angkor was an entire city, meaning that the temples are several kilometers apart - up to 30km! Here's a map.

Angkor Wat + kids.

Cambodia: Siem Reap

I have long wanted to visit Cambodia and finally getting there and still being here continues to be a dream come true. After Joe and Jack left Thailand, Sam and I took a couple days to rest up in Bangkok and then took a 5 hour local train to the border town of Aranyaprathet. It was a beautiful ride through the rice paddies. Little did I know it was like the calm before the storm that is crossing the border from Thailand to Poipet, Cambodia.

Train crossing in Thailand. 23 August 2013

Thai-island Hopping

We had an excellent adventure with Sam's brothers, Joe and Jack, spending most of our time in the islands in the Gulf of Thailand - Koh Tao, Koh Phangan, and Koh Samui. Here are some of the highlights of our two-week trip together. Check out the map page for Thailand to get a better idea of where these places are.

Joe, Jack and I left Chicago in the afternoon on Monday, August 5 and arrived in Bangkok at midnight on Tuesday, August 6, which is twelve hours ahead of Chicago in addition to an almost 24 hour journey. We were exhausted, but so excited to meet up with Sam in the airport and get our bags to our hotel. We cleaned up and went to have a celebratory beer near Khao San Road (a popular backpacker destination full of bars and souvenir shops). We had two days in Bangkok to get accustomed to the time change and visit some historical sites in the capital.

Brothers at the National Museum. Bangkok, Thailand. 7 August 2013

Camping in Sai Kung

This post is long overdue, but the interruption in my blogging from quality time with family was a happy one. I did want to share some photos from our last big excursion in Hong Kong before my departure. To preface, I have wanted to go camping in the Sai Kung region of Hong Kong ever since Sam told me about his adventures there during his time abroad. In my previous visits to Hong Kong, we either didn't have the time or we were too sick to make the journey, so we made a point to check this one off the list over the summer - and I'm so glad we did!

High Island Reservoir, Sai Kung East Country Park. 7 July 2013

Summer in Hong Kong

Spending May to July in Hong Kong is a great idea. I suggest it to anyone who can handle the "90/90" weather as I like to think of it. 90 degrees and 90% humidity. All the time. The pollution has been extremely mild compared to what I saw in the winter. The sun has shone a majority of the time. 

You can enjoy the busy city life. The outdoor seating areas of the pubs and restaurants. You can "hike" up the street and find yourself in a residential neighborhood that turns out to be a great place to run because it happens to be flat. A gem in Hong Kong. You can take a short trip to the beach. You can rent a surfboard for $8USD (Sam taught me to surf this week!). You can sweat all of the moisture out of your body on any number of hikes. You can take the bus to the other side of the mountains and enjoy dinner on the bay. You can go to the "dark side" (Kowloon) and immerse yourself in local life and souvenir markets. You can take the ferry to an outlying island to get away from it all. There's so much to do, even play ice hockey if that's what you're in to.

Market in Wan Chai. 30 June 2013

Crossing the Border

Last weekend, Sam and I went into mainland China during the holiday (July 1) which marks the anniversary of Hong Kong being handed over to China. Seems it was a good idea for us to get out of HK as thousands of people gathered to demonstrate their growing disappointment in the current governance of Hong Kong - despite a level 3 typhoon signal. That level of typhoon signal really just means heavy rain and winds, nothing too severe. At level 8, people are told to stay indoors.

While Hong Kong citizens were advocating for their democratic rights, Sam and I went to Shenzhen (the closest border city in mainland China - see the map) to get massages (often pronounced "massah-jee"). Apparently, the southern regions in China have a long history of bathhouses/massage which has led to the current situation of huge spa complexes on every block. Sam bought us a Groupon for $20USD each which covered a 100-minute body massage, 50-minute foot massage, and 24-hour access to the facilities: saunas, pools, showers, lounging area. The 24-hour access means you can treat the place like your hotel and sleep in the lounging area in big, comfy LazyBoy-esque chairs. Accommodation, massages all for $20USD. This is why I love China.

Shenzhen Central Park. 30 June 2013

Everyday Things

Here's a bit about our neighborhood and getting around town - and my favorite snacks.

Our apartment is located on the border of the Central and Sheung Wan neighborhoods near the corner of Gough and Aberdeen Streets. Gough St and the Sheung Wan neighborhood are an up and coming part of Hong Kong. Even since Sam moved in 9 months ago, he's seen one of his favorite dinner spots close down because the rent is increasing like crazy. This seems to be happening to several smaller shops in the area while high-end boutiques and name-brands like Ralph Lauren Kids move in. Our Sheung Wan stop on the MTR (public light rail) is currently the last stop on the west end. Work is underway on two more stops after ours, so the area is growing pretty quickly right now.

Our apartment building. 14 June 2013

Dragon's Back

After spotting a clear day in the forecast, Sam and I made a plan to take advantage after having quite a few rainy days last week. Yesterday, we hiked Dragon's Back, one of Hong Kong's most popular trails. A relatively easy trail, with beautiful 360-degree views and an end at the beach was impossible to pass up on such a gorgeous day.

We took the MTR over to Shau Kei Wan, then took a light bus to the beginning of the trail. We were greeted immediately by some large spiders (about 5" diameter with their legs) in their webs for a reminder to always be on the lookout. As usual, it was 90 degrees and about 90% humidity, but we did our best to protect against the sun and were fairly successful. At the end, I resorted to using the umbrella for cover which I have always thought a silly idea, but completely understand now.

Dragon's Back Hiking Trail + Sam. 19 June 2013

Rainy Days

I've been in Hong Kong for just over 4 weeks now and realize that I was very lucky in that first month. Aside from the obvious - being able to live in Hong Kong - the weather was gorgeous. It was generally sunny with very little rain and several days that felt like the sun was bobbing alongside me as I walked down the street instead of 93 million miles away. That changed this week and I'm reminded what this region of the world can be like. You guessed it - rainy!

The first downpour we got caught in was on Monday night with another couchsurfer friend, Mario. Sam and I were showing him our favorite bars and upon leaving Le Boudoir, we were met with a rain that stops you in your tracks if you were previously planning a move outside. After attempting to stealthily move from doorway to doorway to avoid the rain, we realized it was useless and just ran around in the rain - which is pretty enjoyable when it's 85 degrees and you don't have to worry about looking nice at your destination (in this case, home).

Rain seen from Le Boudoir's doorway. Central, Hong Kong. 10 June 2013

Victoria Peak

With Sam's schedule having Tuesday/Wednesday off work, we are currently enjoying our weekend. We took advantage of the beautiful weather we've been having and hiked up to Victoria Peak which is probably the biggest tourist attraction in Hong Kong. At a humid 90 degrees, we worked up a very real sweat climbing straight up the mountain but were rewarded with one of the most beautiful views of the city. If you look closely, you can see the rubber duck! Just in case that doesn't work - I took a photo through the telescope for you.

Hong Kong as seen from Victoria Peak. 4 June 2013

The Biggest Rubber Duck EVER

Well, I feel like I've seen all I need to see in Hong Kong. The 54-foot rubber duck that has been to several cities around the world is currently in Hong Kong's Victoria Harbour and I got to see it in person (with hundreds of my closest friends). Yay!

Rubber Duck, Victoria Harbour near the Star Fery Pier at Tsim  Sha Tsui.  26 May 2013

We have Wi-Fi!

Since posting about the difficulty of finding wifi in this wonderful city, I have discovered my new "office." The Hong Kong Central Library. A beautifully maintained building in Causeway Bay, the library is the perfect place for me to connect not only to the internet, but also to electricity. These people are smart.

Hong Kong Central Library. Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Island.  20 May 2013

你好 (Hello) from Hong Kong!

After sleeping for 13 hours last night, I am hopeful that the jetlag has run its course. With such an accomplishment, I begin settling into my new life in Hong Kong for the next couple of months. I will attempt to update this blog as a way to keep in touch with those in faraway lands (hi, mom and dad!) and also to remember the adventures of this place.

Since arriving 4 days ago, Sam and I have spent a lot of time outside - enjoying the warmth and humidity that is just getting started for this Hong Kong summer. My legs have received special attention thanks to the 97-step climb to the apartment, the overall hilly landscape of the city and yesterday's hike up Pottinger Peak.

Big Wave Bay, Shek O, Hong Kong Island. 18 May 2013