Vietnam: Hoi An

We arrived in Hoi An around 6am and were greeted with the usual onslaught of moto and taxi drivers. At this point, I was so desperate to have a place to set my bags and a bed to lay flat in while stretching my legs out fully that we were relieved to have someone drive us rather than walk around blindly. Our first experience with a moto driver in Hoi An turned out to be indicative of what would follow - they capitalize on the language barrier and end up trying to charge double what you agreed on in the beginning when you reach your destination. In this case, we checked into our hotel and the driver sat outside waiting for us to give him the extra money he demanded. Watching him from our room window hoping he'd go away I saw his friend pull up and I realized it was not worth the fight over the equivalent of $1USD - I had heard enough horror stories about local "mafias." I grabbed the cash and went downstairs to give it to him and was met in the hallway with his friend who had come to collect. I was enraged and yelled at him, forcing him backwards and out of the hotel communicating that it was not acceptable for him to come into our hotel. Pleased with their extra money, the two drove away. I was reminded of my place here - a foreigner, unable to speak their language, completely vulnerable and at the mercy of those I ask for help.

Water buffalo. He won't take advantage of you.

Not the most pleasant way to arrive in an unknown city, but it wasn't a new feeling. In this region, I am always an outsider. It's a matter of how people treat me as an outsider that makes the difference. Fortunately, a majority of my experiences here have been positive - full of kind people eager to help or practice their English and make a new friend. Balancing out the moto drivers who all seemed to be playing the same game with tourists here, we were able to have some great interactions with locals. We rented bicycles and rode to the beach and followed a small, strange sign directing us to the Restaurant at the End of the World. We had a great time with the owners who spoke English very well and were able to talk about local practices and recommend food to try while in town.

Small chairs and tables get me every time.

Fishing buddies.

See that little sign - top right?
Of course Sam wanted to follow it.

The old town of Hoi An is full of old buildings, all painted yellow, that reflect beautifully in the setting sun. Situated along the river, it's a gorgeous place to walk around and I can see easily why it is such a popular tourist destination. Hoi An is famous for its custom-tailoring and all of the buildings are filled with silks and other fabrics and models of suits, shirts, dresses they can make. Apparently, tourists come here with a list of clothing they want made for them. If I wasn't living out of a very fully-packed backpack, I would love to have had some things made. Maybe next time.

Riverside in Hoi An.

Wide load on a moto.

Temple.

It's a bit strange to be in these places that have evolved to cater specifically to tourists. Sam and I decided that the town itself felt like a part of Epcot in Disneyworld. The whole place was an amusement park - bars, restaurants, shops, everything for the tourists. When you step outside the designated areas, you get stares from residents that seem to ask why on earth you are there. Of course, you also get random shouts of "Hello!" from all around you and when you respond there is an eruption of laughter. It's like a completely different world from the next block where the streets are lined with Chinese lanterns and bar after bar advertising "fresh beer" and western food menus.

Where the locals live.

White rose wontons - famed in Hoi An.

Hoi An's famous "cao lau"
- noodles with pork atop a mound of vegetables.