Laos: Vang Vieng

On our last go around in Laos, we spent about 3 weeks working with a group called SAELAO near Vang Vieng. Spending an extended period of time here and getting to know the kids in Nathong Village (7km outside Vang Vieng) was one of my favorite experiences and I was thrilled to be going back. Vang Vieng has recently become a destination for backpackers on the “banana pancake trail” (the typical route through SE Asia for young travelers). It is best known for tubing, where you use an inner tube as your mode of transportation down the river from bar to bar. Of course heavy drinking mixed with playing in the river has led to many injuries and even casualties, so most of the bars have been shut down since Sam and I did it two years ago.

Vang Vieng town with karst mountains in the background.

For this visit, we met with some environmental/community organizations. Of course, we were interested to return to SAELAO and see what their progress has been. They have increased their number of volunteers by 300% since we were there and the site itself is much more developed than when we were walking through the swamp to get to our accommodation and not surprised to have a cow come into the bathroom area. To see the different organizations, we rented bicycles and toured the countryside. Laos has an amazing natural beauty as a whole, and Vang Vieng is an exceptional example.

Fields outside Vang Vieng.

After a long day of bike riding (15km of which was over rocks – ouch), there are tons of options for relaxation in the town. An odd characteristic of the touristy area is the consistent playing of American comedies at restaurants. We would go to eat a meal and get sucked into the episodes of Friends and want to stay for just “one more.” It’s comforting to watch a show from home, especially after a few months of squeaky-voiced, low budget southeast Asian soap operas as the only TV option.

Despite losing the draw of tubing, Vang Vieng is still loved for its nightlife. People in this region tend to wake and sleep with the sun, so travelers who want to go for a beer or snack at 11pm are often out of luck. This is not so in Vang Vieng where the town gears its economy towards tourists. There are bars that will stay open as long as there are customers and there are sandwich/banana pancake carts that keep the same hours to the bars they stand outside.

Bridge from Vang Vieng to surrounding villages.

Towards the end of the bike ride -
getting low on water and daylight.

Workers in the field.

I’m so happy to say that this second experience in Vang Vieng was a great one. The tourist area is small and shop owners are light-hearted (or “whole-hearted” as the BeerLao slogan proclaims). Going just a short distance away from the tourist area, you find rural villages and children who actually squeal when they see you ride by. I love this place and was a bit cranky when we had to leave. Until next time, Vang Vieng.

Cows aren't phased by people/cars/trucks getting close to them.

Goats at the Organic Farm.