Saturday, November 9, 2013

Laos: Pakse

The 12-hour ride from Vientiane to the southern end of the country took place on the nicest sleeping bus I have ever had the pleasure of riding. We arrived at the bus station and my jaw dropped a little when we saw the plush interior that resembled miniature cruise ship rooms rather than the fish stick beds I have grown accustomed to on these vehicles. Though the double beds posed a potentially awkward situation for anyone traveling solo (you really get to know your neighbor on the trip as you spoon through the night), it was perfect for Sam and me - I could even stretch my legs out all the way! After watching the $1 DVDs we had purchased in Vientiane (We Were Soldiers, Beasts of the Southern Wild and We're the Millers in case you were wondering), we slept for a couple hours before arriving in Pakse around 6am.

Pakse city.




As we walked around to the guesthouses, I heard and saw several truckloads of men cheering as they passed by. Though unusual, I didn't think too much of it until we settled in at our chosen guesthouse along the Xe Don River. From our deck we watched dragon boat teams warm up for the upcoming races and festival that day - Buon Suang Huea - which apparently celebrates the end of Buddhist Lent and is observed throughout Laos in many towns along the Mekong. Normally held in October, Pakse's festival was rescheduled following the fatal Lao Airlines crash here a few weeks ago. The people seemed grateful for the diversion of the races and accompanying carnival atmosphere and the day carried on pleasantly.

Our sandy seats along the river.
After watching a couple races, we meandered through the carnival where Sam was thrilled to play all sorts of games and share the experience with some wide-eyed kids excited to see a foreigner playing, too. We made friends with a Beerlao representative and spent a good chunk of time in the Beerlao tent toasting one another before enjoying a lunch of grilled lamb (the only clue we had in guessing the meat was the man saying, "Baa") and sticky rice.

Darts + balloons.

Best prize of the day - Beerlao.

BFFs.

I paid $0.40 to see this thing.

One day, we rented a motorbike to visit an eco-school 60km outside Pakse. It was a beautiful drive as always over here and we had a great time meeting the employees and savoring the homemade Lao lunch of mushrooms, greens and rice. It doesn't sound so good as I type it, but it was tasty. From there, we stopped at a Katu (ethnic minority) homestay for some coffee and shelter from the rain. We also got to enjoy some fresh bananas and peanuts from the property.

Big moth. Sam's hand for reference.

Coffee.

I love kittens.

Piglets are cute, too.
Carrying around chickens like no big deal.

Sunset on the Mekong.

We loved our time in Pakse, relaxing on the river and eating Indian food at a branch of the restaurant we found in Vientiane. As the third largest city in the country, it still carries quite the small town feel. The people are very friendly, in true Lao fashion, and I could easily have spent more time here. As our last stop in Laos, I'm left again with such wonderful memories of this country and looking forward to the next visit.

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